Drinking from the hose
When we moved to England, I ate strawberries most of the summer. I was floored that strawberries could be so good for such a long season--the way we have tomatoes here in Atlanta.
Mid-May to Mid-June in the South is this rare liminal period when we have access to spring produce in its last flush, and summer veggies are just coming in. We get to play with flavors outside of the familiar seasonal boundaries, and that’s thrilling for chefs and cooks. Salads can have those aggressive, bitter greens, tender lettuce, and fragrant basils. Radishes and tomatoes coexist. I even bought early peaches the other day. They were tiny, rocky things that radiated perfume after a few days on the counter.
Tomorrow I’m giving a demo at Peachtree Road Farmers Market where I’ll be treating our non-lake-bound residents to a taste of spring-into-summer, and sharing some pro tips to make the most of this unique time of year. I’ll be giving a few technical pointers and rhapsodizing about corn the grain. Check back to see exactly what I put together and get a recipe.
Ball jars, because it's always 2008, apparently.
Memorial Day was going to be lazy, but my sweet potato slips arrived today, so it’s time to till the bed and plant them. Probably we’ll grill some burgers and eat a bunch of salads, as those are my default menu items in the summer. Tonight is cucumber soup. I want to eat it with egg in a hole, but I won’t be baking for a day or two. It’s a meal that’s been calling to me for a few weeks. This has been a go-to recipe for a few years, as it's obscenely fast and highly adaptable.
I got my first cucumbers last week, and labneh from Woodsman & Wife. I grabbed Thai basil from the garden, but most soft herbs, alone or in combination would be great. The labneh is milder than the buttermilk that I normally use, so I bumped up the acidity with some white wine vinegar. Don't add the olive oil in the blender: the speed of the blades shears the fat, giving it a rancid, bitter flavor.
You could sub out for peanuts with mint and cilantro, and garnish with spiced nuts in a bowl, stir in some pesto or add a bunch of croutons and other veggies for a panzanella. Spring Vidalias, lemon zest and juice, and celery leaves would be sweet, bitter, and bracing. Garnish with more leaves, oil, Vidalia tops and peach slices to make it extra Southern. Like I said, adaptable.
